Malta; What's the Malta with you? Mediterranean Cruise Part 7

Destination: Valletta, Malta
Date: December 2012

On the steps of a building in Mdina, Malta
January 2013

When we docked in Malta we were ready for a day of adventure.  We didn’t plan anything, and my Rick Steve’s book didn’t cover Malta, so we were on our own. I’d done a little browsing on the web to see what the “must see” sights were on this little island, and that was about it.  

At the port of Valetta in Malta
January 2013

Another beautiful view of the Grand Harbor in Malta
January 2013

When I saw that Malta was on our itinerary I have to say I had really no idea where it was located.  I know a little embarrassing.  That’s when I found out that it is located in the smack dab middle of the Mediterranean.  Just between the straight of Gibraltar and the Suez Canal.  It isn’t a very big island but it does have a population of almost 500,000.  Of course it has changed hands of power over the years, being in such a strategic spot in the Mediterranean, but now it is under its own rule since 1965.  The last country to rule Malta was Great Britain so that made the national language English.  I have to say, after the struggle in Sicily, we were glad to be able to communicate.  The other national language is Maltese so of course the locals could still talk about you right in front of your face, but at least they understood when we negotiated taxi rides.

The port of Malta is probably one of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen.  With long stone buildings with arches and bells it looks like something built back in the 1500’s at least.  I’m not sure what the age of the buildings are, but I did think it was funny that once we walked behind the building at the port, it was just a front facade almost like a movie set in Hollywood.  There was no building... it was just the face.  

In downtown Valletta, Malta
Can you tell how tired they are getting of all my picture taking?
January 2013

We negotiated with some taxi drivers at the port but found them to be too expensive for what we wanted.  From our reading we knew we wanted to visit the city of Mdina, the original capital of Malta and go to the Blue Grotto, a series of caves in the cliffs of Malta on the southern shoreline.  We had gotten instructions from the TI office about riding the bus, so we knew if we couldn’t find a taxi we could bum a ride on a bus.  

The twinkies taking in a beautiful view of the port
Valletta, Malta, January 2013

In the Barrakka Gardens in front of a monument
Valletta, Malta January 2013

From the port we were able to take an elevator ride up to the city level of the new capital Valletta, which put us in the.Barrakka Garden  This cute little city sits up on the cliff tops and overlooks the port of Malta quite majestically.  The town is small and inviting with lots of little shops and restaurants but we were ready to see some sites.  There are horse drawn carriages walking the streets taking tourists on rides, and beautiful cathedrals and gardens to see.  It was actually a really cute little city and had foreign music playing and the smell of a sheep barn.  A little musty I must say.  The kids begged to ride the horse carriages but we were still on the hunt for a taxi.

We began our walk through town over to the bus terminals feeling like a taxi wasn’t meant to be on this adventure.  Then Trent found some taxis parked near the bus station and the negotiating began.  We needed to go thirty-five minutes south to the Blue Grotto and then another twenty minutes to Mdina and then another twenty minutes back to Valletta.  We needed two taxis for the entire day who were willing to not only drive us but then wait as we did what we wanted to do at these locations.

One of the two taxis we took during our day around the island
Valletta, Malta, January 2013

The beautiful countryside we had a chance to drive through as we drove from Valletta to the Blue Grotto
Malta, January 2013

Luckily he negotiated a 50E for each taxi and we quickly split into two groups and started our journey.  After a very scenic ride through the island we arrived at the Blue Grotto.  This little city just south of Zurrieq, has a Mediterranean feel of the Greek Islands.  With a city built on a cliff side there are beautiful views from wherever we stood.  We walked down the steep streets to buy our boat tickets and get out on the water.  This was our first time in the water of the Mediterranean during our entire trip!

Colton posing out front of the ticket booth to the Blue Grotto
Malta, January 2013

Three happy girls, excited to be out on the water!
Malta, January 2013

Trent and I were excited to be out on the water exploring the blue caves of Malta
January 2013

Our Blue Grotto tickets were 6E each and with six boats running we were quickly on our own motorized skiff, with our own captain with the gruff of a fisherman with piercing blue eyes.  He kept slurring out words in English pointing out objects and between Trent, Colton, Bailey and I we were able to put together a meaning and understand what he was saying to us. 

The view we were enjoying from our dinghy
Malta, January 2013

The blue water was beautiful inside of the caves
Malta, January 2013

Lexi loved going into the caves!
Malta, January 2013

Our little tour took us to about ten different caves, through ice blue water that was clear as glass.  It was beautiful to be down in the caves with the ocean crashing against the rocks and see the beauty of the cliffside.  It actually reminded us a lot of the cave boat rides we’ve done with my sister “K” and her husband “M” in Lake Powell.  It was beautiful and this was one of the kids favorite activities of the entire trip.

On board our dinghy and having fun!
Malta, January 2013

When we were done at the Blue Grotto we got into our waiting taxis and proceeded to our next stop in Mdina.  This beautiful little city is the highest peak of Malta.  You can see three-quarters of the island from the view from Mdina.  We entered the city by a bridge into a large city gate.  The buildings were so close together and made for lots of long narrow alley ways for pedestrians.  With more churches and cathedrals to view, shops, restaurants it all wound around in the beautiful setting that I’m sure has been featured in many Hollywood movies.  It looked like a city from the castles of dark ages, but clean and without the muddy walk ways.  

The narrow streets of Mdina with all six kids
Colton, 16, Bailey 14, Clay 10, Lexi 8, Leah 8, and Bella 5
January 2013

The kids posing again in front of a cathedral in Mdina
January 2013

We just had fun taking pictures.  Every time I suggested going into a church or even the Mdina cathedral I was out voted and reminded how disappointing this or that church would be having just visited the Sistine Chapel.  I had to admit they were right.  We came across a long ledge that had a beautiful view of the beauty of Malta and we had to stop and take pictures. 

Bella holding the flags of Italy and Malta
January 2013

At a cute red door across the street from where we ate lunch
Malta, January 2013

 The funny thing about this little city is that even with the tiny streets, there were tiny cars driving around.  Every once in awhile we’d hear honking as a car came around a corner letting those who were walking know to get out of the way!  We stopped at Fontanella a garden tea restaurant for lunch and were sat at a table that had a gorgeous view from the outside veranda.  We sat together over looking the Mediterranean eating our eighth day of pizza.  Of course the kids didn’t care and we devoured it quickly.  

Our delicious lunch with a beautiful view overlooking the countryside of Malta
January 2013

Clay finally started enjoying pizza our last few days on our Italian vacation
Malta, January 2013

Just sitting on that veranda with all of my children, and my husband will be a memory I will have for a lifetime.  It was so beautiful, and I was so happy to share it with the people I love the most.  

On the streets of Mdina enjoying our day with the kids
January 2013

Trent and I so glad we came to Malta!
January 2013

We knew from our little stops, shopping, our amazing lunch, and our lazy stroll that we were going to give our taxi drivers heart attacks after waiting so long. So we made our way back to the city gates.  Our day was over, but our mission was accomplished.  We saw all the sites we wanted to see, did a little shopping, and ate some great food.  Next time I get over to this part of the world I’d like to make a summer stop in Malta and enjoy swimming the beautiful blue water that surrounds this island in the Mediterranean.

Bella's little fingers holding the flags of the region, soooo cute
January 2013

Safe and Happy Travels!

A Neapolitan Life; Naples, Pompei, Capri & the Amalfi Coast; Mediterranean Cruise Part 5

Destination:  Napels, Pompei,Capri and the Amalfi Coast
Date: December 2012 July 2009

Trent and our six kids outside of one of the busiest pizzerias in Naples
Naples, December 2012

Our first visit to this area was in July 2009.  We had come with a large group of friends and brought along my mother, sister, and our three oldest children.  Looking back on it now I can not believe how much we got checked off our list of things to see in just one day!  We started off the day going straight from Naples over to Pompei.  We had heard there wasn’t too much to see in Naples so we abandoned the home of Sophia Loren for a more historical sight.  

Colton's face in this 2009 pic touring Pompei says it all
Pompei, July 2009

One of the corpses left from the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius, in 79AD and preserved for the past 2000 years
Pompeii, July 2009

Bailey and Clay at the ruins in Pompei
Pompei, July 2012

Arriving in Pompei we were met by our tour guide and proceeded to walk around this ancient city.  Pompei had been recently excavated, in 1748, after being covered in ash since Mt. Vesuvius’ eruption in 79 A.D.  It cost us about 11E to enter the grounds plus the cost of our guide.  This ancient Roman city was a port hub back in its heyday and represented the middle class of Roman life.  Since it was covered in ash for so long many of the artifacts are perfectly preserved and gave us a sense of what life was like over 2,000 years ago.  From the amphitheater, road-side shops, and fast food type places to churches and harlot houses, Pompei had it all.  

Colton's lack of enthusiasm cracks me up as he sits outside of one of the
Pompeii homes that still has mosaics on the walls
Pompeii July 2009

This was a wealth of knowledge for anyone who likes history but in the end through the eyes of Colton who was 13 at the time, Bailey 10, and Clay 7 it was just a bunch of rocks and dirt.  They didn’t really understand the magnitude of it all until they saw the plaster casts of victims of Mt. Vesuvius’ fury.  There are glass cases that hold casts of some of these victims there in Pompei today.  Since they were suffocated so quickly and buried in ash it has captured the last moments of their despair.  It is very sad but an interesting sight bringing this whole destroyed city full-circle, when the children realized people had lived here.  

Our travel group back in 2009. We were a little bored by our tour guide
Pompeii July 2009

Clay took my picture as we walked the original streets of Pompeii
Pompeii, July 2009

Our guide in Pompei isn’t worth mentioning because he was rude and a little put off by the children.  He also kept taking a minute to have a smoke which irritated me greatly.  After our visit here we ran quickly over to our tour vans and headed over to see the Amalfi Coast.  At the time I didn’t realize what a gem of coastline I was to behold.  It is a beautiful area where the rich and famous congregate and I wish I had had a few days just to spend at the beaches here.

My mom and I posing with the Amalfi coast in the background
Amalfi Coast, July 2009

Wearing capris in Capri  What a coincidence!
Capri, July 2009

Bailey and Colton have been besties for a long time
On the Amalfi Coast, July 2009

Our last stop of the day was a ferry boat ride over to the island of Capri.  Capri was made famous by being the Roman Emperor’s, Augustus and Tiberius, vacation homes.  It was just fun to go and see the architecture of this hillside community.  There is a train ride that takes you up the side of the hill called the Monte Solaro.  It is at a 45o angle train ride.  When at the top I remember spending most of my time shopping and having some delicious dinner overlooking the Mediterranean.  Some of my friends went to visit the Blue Grotto which is a dinghy ride into the caves that are in the cliffside of Capri.  With a very little entrance into the cave the water there is said to be magnificently blue and a place where ancient Romans would come to hang out.  Since the water was a little choppy during our visit I decided not to attempt to see the Blue Grotto for myself.  

Walking the streets of Naples
December 2012

This time around we decided to do Naples and see what we had missed the first time.  Naples turned out to be a very beautiful quaint city.  I really enjoyed it.  We started our day without any real plans.  Luckily the port is right in the city so we knew we would be okay winging it without a guide.  When we got off of the boat there were many taxis wanting us to hire them for the day to take us around the city, or over to Sorrento, Capri, or even the Amalfi Coast.  Since we wanted to see Naples and knew we could probably do it on our own, we turned them all down.  The amazing thing was they were all still very nice to us.  I usually expect the taxi drivers to become a little irritated and mean after we say no and have even had some call us names but it wasn’t like this in Naples.  They were all friendly and nice and wished us luck on our walking journey.  What a nice change of pace!

Not the prettiest port... Naples
December 2012

From there we decided to start walking and see where the day took us.  Right by the port is the Royal Palace and so we thought we’d start there.  On our five minute walk toward the palace Trent saw a man holding a sign for a tour of the Naples Underground.  If you were to be looking for a sign for this it would actually read Napoli Sottteranea.  This was the one thing that Trent really wanted to see so we grabbed the kids and started following the man with the sign.  He soon took us to a little shop and down over a hundred stairs to this man made underground maze of passageways that used to be the cisterns and waterways of ancient Naples.  

Going down, down, down underground to the Italian hideouts during WWII
Naples, December 2012

Some old artifacts left from the days people lived down under the streets of Naples
December 2012

Yes some of the tunnels were this small.  The walkways were about 22" wide and some less than 5' 1/2" tall
Naples Underground, December 2012

Some of the tunnels had grooves in the walls that led straight up to homes and businesses
Naples Underground, December 2012

Then during World War II it was made into secret passageways and hideouts for Italians through the bombings over the city.  It was fascinating to see how the people lived trying to survive the war.  There is a lot of engraved graffiti on the walls that tells an interesting story as the people hid with their loved ones to save themselves during this desperate time.  The kids were fascinated and loved going down, down, down to see all of the tunnels.  Some of the passageways are only about twenty inches wide and five-and-a-half feet tall and so it was very crammed in some spaces.  Of course this was the most exciting part of the day for the kids.  They loved the Indiana Jones type tour that lasted us about one and a half hours.  

A pic I took from the bottom of the tunnels going up to the top.  It was a very deep series of tunnels
Naples, December 2012

These three are quite sassy in the tunnels of Naples
December 2012

Gratefully it was only about fifty stairs to get up our of the passageways and we were let off in a great shopping area of Naples.  The whole tour cost our family of eight, 40E but that did not include an English speaking guide.  The English guide was off and so we were given a paper with the details of the tour and relied on the translation of a kind Italian woman who was also on our tour.  More info on this tour can be found at www.lanapolisotteranea.it with Laes Naples Underground.  The only way to go on this tour is with a guide so a self guided tour is not possible.  

Just outside out pizzeria called Trianon where we had a delicious lunch!
Naples, December 2012

Leah was in heaven having pizza for lunch everyday!
Naples, December 2012

Ordering one pizza per person was not uncommon but we were only able to eat five at each sitting
Naples, December 2012

By the time our tour was finished and a little shopping complete we decided it was time to have lunch.  There are many places around Naples to enjoy a great meal but we wanted to find the best pizza available since this is the birthplace of pizza!  I relied on our Rick Steve’s Italy book, ricksteves.com once again and chose one of the two pizza places he suggested.  The great thing about these restaurants is that they are across the street from each other so you can make your decision of where to go once you arrive at your location.  One was called Antica Pizzeria da Michele and the other was Pizzeria Trianon both located on Via Pietro Colletta.  We chose Pizzeria Trianon.

Bella was eating four and five pieces each time we sat down.  It was incredibly good pizza
Naples, December 2012

After two taxis to the restaurant we arrived about 12:00pm.  The first two floors were already packed and we were taken to the third floor.  We were the second group to be seated on this floor but within ten minutes the entire floor was full!  We started to stress because we hadn’t ordered our pizzas, though we had given the waitresses a signal.  Finally they came and we ordered five pizzas.  It was a little funny that we stressed at all because all five pizzas and it seemed like everyone else’s pizza on the third floor were all delivered to the tables at the same time. It was a fun sight to see.  

Posing on the streets of Naples
December 2012

Posing as a group on the streets of Naples
December 2012

The kids received a little unexpected attention that day because I also made them wear our family vacation shirt.  All six were adorned in Team shirts and the friendly Italians in the restaurant kept shouting out their names.  Those were the only English words we heard in that establishment and it made the kids kinda feel like rockstars.  So though some of you may pity Colton and Bailey they really didn’t mind it so much.  Person after person kept coming over and counting all six in Italian and thought it was fun to rattle off something to Trent and I which I’m pretty sure went something like “Don’t you have a television? Ha Ha Ha Ha.”  They were hilarious.

Missing this pizza now!!
Trianon Pizzeria, December 2012

The best part was when we left Trianon and realized we had gotten there at the perfect time because now there was a huge crowd of locals outside waiting for tables.  Across the street at Antica Pizzeria da Michele the line was just as long with waiting customers.  We felt lucky we had gotten this advice from Rick Steve’s and enjoyed a local favorite with great pizza at a very affordable price.

On the street with these four cuties
Naples, December 2012

We began our walk down Via Umberto back to the ship and did a little shopping on the street.  The kids wanted to get their collectors items.  Colton was collecting shot glasses for his teachers shot glass collection, Bailey was getting keychains, Clay was looking for statues to represent the area, Lexi and Leah looked for snow globes and Bella’s collection consisted of candy or toys.  She was always disappointed that she ended up eating half of her collection before getting back to the states.

Bella couldn't pass up this yummy candy on the street in Naples
December 2012

Just being in this city was electrifying.  It had a great atmosphere.  The small pedestrian streets that always ended up having an unexpected scooter or motorcycle going through.  We really enjoyed the city of Naples.  We let the kids go back to the ship after so many days of site seeing and Trent and I ventured out one more time to do a little grown up window shopping. 

All six on the street in Naples
December 2012

We really enjoyed the shopping district by Piazzo da Martiri.  It was a little more upscale and the shoppers were fun to people watch.  They really looked very sophisticated and dressed up for shopping.  We stopped into the Louis Vuitton store just to take a peek around and when we were on our way out the doorman instructed me to take off my wedding ring and earrings because local thieves stalk the doors and watch who comes out of the store.  That was the first time on this trip that I felt a little unsafe.  Most of the time we felt fine but we did take precautions by separating our money and wearing it close to our bodies.  I even wore a fake wedding ring so I really wasn’t worried if it did get stolen but just the idea of being held up got me nervous.  It seemed like after the doorman had told us that it looked like every person on the street was scoping us out.  We were quickly back in a taxi and back to the boat and I was glad it was just before the sun went down.  

Had such a great day with these six on the street in Naples
December 2012

One thing I wish we had had time for was the Archaeological Museum.  Rick Steve’s says its a little dusty and dirty but does have a great collection especially of items from Pompeii.  It only costs 6.50E each so it isn’t too expensive but the kids were all museumed out by this point so we decided to skip it.  Other than the ancient churches, and architecture, Naples didn’t really have too much else to see.  Since my kids weren’t interested in either of those things it ended up being a quick six hours in the city.  If any of you find some cool things to do in Naples please let me know.  I’m positive I’ll be back there someday and I’d love to add more things to do onto my list!

Safe and Happy Travels!!