Roaming Among Romans in Roma; Mediterranean Cruise Part 3

Destination: Rome, Italy

Date: December 2012

All eight of us posing by the Trevi Fountain in Rome
Rome, December 2012

Rome is chaos at its best.  Crowded, busy with so much to see it is easy to feel overwhelmed.  With our crew we broke it down into a two day visit, and one sweet guide to help us see as much as we could, or at least as much as the kids could withstand.  Our first stop was checking into our hotel, The Westin Excelsior  www.starwoodhotels.com.  Yes after my NYC post I promised never to stay in a Westin again but this one was A-MAZ-ING!  My husband booked it so I was just along for the ride, and I was pleasantly surprised.  I would mark this as the third best hotel in the world that I’ve stayed at!

Loving our stay off of the cruise ship in Rome at the Westin Excelsior
Rome, December 2012

The kids loved having their own beds for once during our two week trip!
Loving the Westin!
Rome December 2012

The staff was so accommodating and gave us a suite that fit all eight of us in the lap of luxury.  We loved it.  Three kids to a room, a living room, and one more room for Trent and I.  We couldn’t have been happier.  From here our guide met us, we grabbed taxis and were off to Vatican City.  

Our awesome guide Fabio posing with Clay
Vatican City, December 2012

Though it is called a city the Vatican is actually the smallest country in the world.  My kids were sorely disappointed that getting another stamp on their passports was not necessary in Vatican City, so though its a country leave your passports in a safe at the hotel.

In Vatican City ready for an informational tour & maybe a chance to see the Pope?
 Unfortunately that was not meant to be...
Vatican City, December 2012

Our guide, Fabio with Imago Artis Tours www.imagoartistour.com, was excellent and gave us just enough information to let us know what we were looking at but not too much to leave the kids bored out of their minds.  Children under 8-years-old are free to enter the Museum of the Vatican but everyone else must pay 15E to enter, www.rome-museum.com.    Of course to the kids this was just another museum with a lot of statues.  Most of these have been broken and put back together as well as could be expected.  Of course we were excited to get into the Raphael rooms and Michelangelo’s Sistine chapel, where we learned was the actual spot where the smoke is released declaring to the world when a new Pope has been determined. 

Raphael was a master of modern art such as depth and perspective and the use of light and shadow.  This ceiling is all painted with shadows which give a three-dimensional look
Vatican City, December 2012

The Fontana della Pigna aka the Pigna ("The Pine cone") is a former Roman fountain
which now sits in a Vatican courtyard
Vatican City, December 2012

The Sistine Chapel created by Michelangelo
Vatican City, December 2012

Of course the Sistine Chapel is something I had to see to believe, and it is quite a work of art!  Our guide was excellent in describing the detail and purpose of many of the paintings and the kids were intrigued by his knowledge.

In St.Peters Basilica
Vatican City, December 2012

The Pietà 1499 is a masterpiece of Renaissance sculpture by Michelangelo, located in St. Peter's Basilica
 Vatican City, Italy, December 2012

At the end of the Sistine Chapel tour we made our way over to Peter’s Basilica, saintpetersbasilica.org.  It is the grandest scale cathedral I have ever been in.  It made me wish that the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem was as magnificent as St Peters.  Of course this is the site where Peter was crucified upside down when it was only Vatican Hill.  There are many beautiful mosaics to see on the walls and floors, pope crypts, and  huge statues, most notably Michelangelo’s Pieta.   This statue is protected by bullet-proof glass after an Australian tourist ran at it with a hammer back in the 70’s and damaged the hand and nose of Mary.  Just a little interesting fact.  

Leah is a little horrified by the preserved body of Pope John XXIII.
Vatican City, Rome December 2012

The kids were a little freaked out by the Pope that has been preserved and dipped in a wax laying in a glass coffin.  I know that much of this went over the kids heads but I’m sure this image will stay with them for a lifetime.

Bailey posing out front of the Vatican with the Papal Swiss Guard in the background
Vatican City, December 2012

After leaving St. Peter’s Basilica we said goodbye to our tour guide and took taxis over to a nearby restaurant called Gusto’s http://www.gusto.it.  We barely made it in by 3:30pm before it closed for the afternoon at 4:00pm.  Of course we filled our tummies, rested, used some much needed bathrooms and took off again for our Heart of Rome Walk that is recommended in Rick Steve’s book “Italy” 2012.  If you haven’t purchased a Rick Steve’s book for your European travel I highly recommend it, www.ricksteves.com.  I love his detail and honesty in describing so many sights around Europe.  

On the Spanish Steps
Rome, December 2012

Trent and Colton posing on the street by the Barcaccia Fountain
across from the Spanish Steps demonstrating how packed it was at Christmas
Rome, December 2012

We used this book to start our walk straight from our restaurant and over to the Spanish Steps www.rome-tour.co.uk/spanish_steps.htm, named for the Spanish embassy to the Vatican for over three hundred years. We were amazed at how many Italians come to just hang out at these sights.  The streets were packed and we were a little overwhelmed keeping our kids at our sides.  From there we walked over to the Trevi Fountain and made our wish!  We hope that it also brings us all back to Rome someday though Lexi may not be invited after pretending to fall into the water.  

I had to take a picture of this gelato with all the toys.  I couldn't eat this gelato but still had to take a quick pic
Rome, Italy December 2012

Leah and Clay were thrilled to find this gelato across from the Trevi Fountain
Rome, December 2012

The kids outside of the Pantheon
Rome, December 2012

Of course we also had to stop again for crepes and gelato to refuel our engines and continue the walk.  It actually is a very simple walk and enjoyable too since so many people are out enjoying the good weather during December. Onward our “Heart of Rome” walking tour recommended by Rick Steve’s took us over to Piazza Colonna, onto Piazza Capranica right into the heart of the Pantheon.  The Pantheon, www.rome.info/pantheon/, is the home of the domed ceiling created by the Romans and an inspiration to so many architects.  It is a huge building and free to the public which also entombs two Roman Kings and that of  the artist Raphael.  When I told my kids that this was where Raphael was buried, Colton replied, “You mean the teenage mutant ninja turtle?”.  I could tell by this comment he had seen enough Rome for one day.  

Kids were exhausted and passed out in the Pantheon while Trent and I
read to them the significance of this beautiful building
Rome, December 2012

We still had one more stop on our walking tour so we ventured on and came across The Four Rivers Fountain and Piazza Navona.  Our tour guide Fabio had highly recommended taking the kids to Piazza Navona so we knew we had to make it our last stop of the day.  The Piazza does have a carousel, some street performers, and lots and lots of shopping.  Imagine Chinatown exploding but at Italian pricing.  Though the kids begged for many of the items we dangled the idea of going back to the hotel for a swim and that soon won them over.  One quick taxi ride back to the Westin and we were safe from being loaded down with many toys and novelty items we did not want.  

Leah enjoying the outdoor shops at Piazza Navona
Rome, December 2012

Sorry but this shot is irresistible to me!
All six walking the streets of Rome
December 2012

After a good nights sleep in our excellent accommodations we were ready for another fun filled day of sight-seeing.  Check out next weeks post on Roaming in Rome Part Deux for more places to see with your kiddos abroad in Rome!

Safe and Happy Travels!!

"Much Ado About Nothing..."Austin & Lake Austin Spa & Resort

Destination: Austin, Texas
Date: November & December 2012

The entrance to Sixth Street in downtown Austin
November 2012

Beautiful downtown Austin with the State Capital in the background
November 2012

Austin is one of the best little cities in America.  I think the best way to describe it is funky.  It yearns to be as liberal as Berkley, CA and as hip as NYC.  The best way to fit in this eclectic town is to throw on a pair of big bulky black eyeglasses and fake it.  Being a hub for the computer industry there is a much higher level income of people in this little town.  Saying that... there are lots of fun things to do to keep busy.

My trendy sister "K" and her daughter "L"
Check out her awesome blog at www.mydelayedfairytale.com

Recently, my trendy sister "K" came to visit me in San Antonio, and she was set on going the sixty miles north to visit Austin.  I told her to put together an itinerary of things she wanted to do and I would be her humble host.   Browsing her list of "to do's", I was just as excited as she was, to visit.  Our first stop of the day was to Sandra Bullock's restaurant, Bess Bistro, bessbistro.com.  Its located just off 6th street (music center of Austin) at the cross street of San Antonio St.  Entering her posh restaurant we stepped down into the basement of an early 1900's building, and into a beautiful, and comfy dining establishment.

Trent and "L" in front of Bess' Bistro
November 2012

The front door to this cool little establishment
November 2012

I think it helped that it was an overcast kind of blustery day outside because it added to the ambiance of this basement establishment.  With a fire place, a beautiful "old-timey" bar, and wine bottles all around it was a fun place to have lunch.  I couldn't help keeping a look-out over my shoulder to see if "Sandy" was making any kind of appearance that day.  She didn't, we ate, and moved on...

Cute little booth in Bess'
November 2012

The bar in the middle of the restaurant, Bess' Bistro
November 2012

Our next stop was for some fun antique shopping.  We headed over to another place "K" had on her list called Uncommon Objects, uncommonobjects.com.  It was a typical antique shop in south Texas with the noticeable difference of how the product was displayed.  Instead of vendors setting up booths to display their whatnots, the owner of the store had very tastefully displayed the items in colored categories.  In one section everything had varying colors of green, in another red, yet again in another... yellow.  It was beautifully displayed and made my shopping experience so much more enjoyable.

Cute antique store organized in colors!
December 2012

Fun little antique shop in Austin
November 2012

Gourdoughs Food truck, home of amazing donuts!
November 2012

After enjoying some shopping in this area we set out to find a food truck for dessert.  Since my apple maps told me that Gordough's Specialty Doughnuts, www.gourdoughs.com,  was 0.8 miles from the store we were shopping, we started out on foot to find our treasure.  It was a great little walk through this part of Austin and we found our food truck in no time.  Just like the food network promises Austin is filled with food trucks.  It has become quite a trend in this city.  Plus I love it because it adds to the selection for the consumer... like me!!  It was a lot of fun finding our truck and feasting on any kind of donut we could imagine.  We settled for the Funky Monkey and the Miss Shortcake which were both amazing and too much for one person to eat alone.

"K" is grateful while Trent buys our doughnuts!
November 2012

Can you see the enthusiasm on my face as we sampled a few goodies
November 2012

Just a month after "K's" departure, Trent and I found ourselves headed back up to Austin to enjoy the Lake Austin Spa and Resort.  Ringing in 19 years of wedded bliss on December 18 we were excited for a three night stay away from the kiddos.

A sanctuary for peace and meditation, I'm not kidding its bliss!
December 2012

The resort sits lake side
December 2012

If you've never heard about Lake Austin Spa and Resort then today is your lucky day, lakeaustin.com.  It is an amazing resort and ranked number one destination spa by Conde Nast!  Located on the shores of Lake Austin it contains a peaceful escape from all worldly cares.  It has only forty rooms and each located just steps up from the shoreline.  Sitting on the private patio of our room I can look over the water and see the glimmer of the suns reflection and hear the rustling of leaves from the breeze that blows through the resort.

The one bedroom bungalows just up from the lake front
December 2012

My favorite spot at the resort!
December 2012

Once we arrived, we were given robes to wear throughout our stay.  Yep clothes are optional! Of course we all stay very modestly covered up with these big robes.  All jewelry, makeup, and the necessity of doing my hair was abandoned for the equalizing power of the robe.  Every guest walked around in these giving this resort a feeling of being in a sanctuary of those seeking peace and tranquility.  As a mother of six around the holidays thats exactly what I was seeking... peace.

My daily attire while on resort
December 2012

Trent wasn't as easy to convince to wear his robe around the property,
but all these ladies knew the dress code of choice!
December 2012

In my last week at home I'd thrown one PTA holiday party, attended the office party, one piano recital, one orchestra recital, a swim meet, and helped wrap presents for the teachers at the school.  I was running and running and ready for respite.  At Lake Austin Resort there are many different yoga and workout classes available, water cycles, hikes, lap pools and anything you can imagine to get your zen back in order.  Trent and I even tried a "beaming" class which I had never done before that worked on our inner balance with yoga type moves and a soft beam.  It was interesting to say the least.

Our first beaming class (basically a class about balance)
December 2012

There is a spa on site that also offers a huge menu of items for our enjoyment, www.lakeaustin.com/explore/lakehouse-spa/.  I told Trent since I was going to blog about what they had to offer I needed to try as many treatments as I could. ;)  Our first night at the resort we did the couples "Texas Starry Night" massage out on an open aired deck in the spa.  Believe it or not, even in December it wasn't cold.  We enjoyed the breeze and the outdoor heaters that were right next to us.  With the stars shining bright over our heads we enjoyed our couples massage and I began to feel the stress leave my body.

Ready for our Thai Yoga massage on the outdoor patio
December 2012

The next morning we decided to do a couples Thai Yoga massage.  I've mentioned this procedure in a previous post while we were visiting Thailand.  Even here it was a great massage.  Trent calls it yoga for lazy people, but it really is a great stretching massage.  Later that day we had the Diamond Facials.  It was great with cellular and collagen stimulation and we really did both look years younger after the procedure.

Trent enjoying a hammock by the lake
December 2012

The best part of the day however was my nap I took outside by the lake front.  I took out a pillow and a beautiful crocheted blanket from my room and lay out on a hammock and read my book until my eyes grew heavy and I fell asleep.  It was so relaxing with the wind brushing my skin, and birds singing in the trees.

All of these are served on small salad/bread plates.  Not the most amount of food but it was all delicious
December 2012

I should also mention that this resort also has a fantastic organic food.  Being all inclusive, it gives quite a selection for the everyday fare.  The food is portion controlled but with five courses to every meal I never felt like I had not eaten enough.  Its all organic, locally grown, and there is even an herb garden just outside the main dining area that keeps the promise "from the farm to the plate".  With all the calories of every item listed on the menu its a great way to watch what you eat while at this luxury resort.

Some of the many oils to choose from during the Ayurvedic massage
December 2012

While we were there we also had the Star of India massage, which is an ayurvedic scalp and neck procedure that includes an herbal full-body treatment.  Since it is based on your personal dosha, or vital energy, it is all customized to fit your personal needs.  Since I hadn't had an ayurvedic procedure before it was a fun way to try something new.  Each movement my therapist made was slow and deliberate and added to the tranquility of the treatment.  My favorite part was when warm essential oil was streamed over my forehead in the traditional "third-eye" area and I could feel the warm oil dribble down my forehead into my scalp.  It lasted for several minutes as the continuous dripping of oil saturated my scalp.  Almost like a candle wax coating my head it was a warm and soothing experience.

Tools needed for the Tour of Asia massage.  Looks sketchy, I know but it was incredible!
December 2012

The cups used for the cupping procedure
December 2012

The last treatment I had the chance to experience was the Tour of Asia.  This is a combination of many East Asian therapies to relieve pain, and bring complete relaxation.  As if I wasn't relaxed enough....  With the combination of acupuncture (it really doesn't hurt at all), moxibustion, cupping and tapping are all used to bring total relaxation.  Cupping is a cool procedure that sucks the toxins out of your skin but also leaves you looking like you've been attacked by an octopus so make sure not to do this before a special even where any amount of your back, shoulders or arms are shown.  It was all so wonderful and I enjoyed every moment of our stay at this top rated resort.

Trent's back after his cupping procedure
December 2012

Our therapist left small acupuncture needles in our ears promote relaxation even after our procedure
December 2012

All the elements of earth are represented onsite at this resort.  Visually it is beautiful.  Add the sounds of birds, the crunching of he gravel paths, the breeze, the water flowing at the lake or the water fountains on property, the smells of the water, the greenery, the sites of squirrels, monarch butterflies, leaves skipping along the paths and the taste of the delicious foods with so much variety it is a smorgasborg for the senses.

The pathway to all of the rooms (top) The blue waiting room for therapies (left) The outdoor walkway (right)
All equals a beautiful resort
December 2012

Truly this is my favorite spa resort in the country.  Of course I haven't tried them all and if you think you know of one that is any better please let me know so I can get a reservation!  I highly recommend this amazing sanctuary to bring peace and harmony to any soul just needing a little recuperation.

Safe and Happy Travels!!

Florence and Pisa Anyone? Mediterranean Cruise Part 2

Destination: Florence and Pisa Italy
Date: December 2012

One of my favorite pics as the kids walked the wet streets of Florence, Italy
December 2012

Welcome to the Port of Livorno!  Also known as the port to the beautiful cities of Florence and Pisa.  On day two of our cruise we landed in Livorno and were met by our tour guide Sylvia who works for prestigerent.com.  She was probably the most excellent guide we have ever encountered on any of our travels. She was bright, prompt, had excellent English, and she never missed an opportunity to share her wealth of knowledge.  On top of all of that, she was very accommodating to our group of eight.  We loved her!  

Ponte Vecchio bridge taken during our walk through the city
Florence December 2012

As I’ve mentioned before (in the Singapore post) we don’t do well in large travel excursions arranged by the cruise ships.  Most of the time we’ve been herded on to large buses where I pray that my kids won’t wine for a snack, or need to visit a restroom.  Then I pray that they will be quiet so that all of the other site-seers can hear the guide at the front of the bus.   After learning this lesson rather quickly, we have been arranging our own tours.  This was another day we were glad we did so.  

Ponte Santa Trinita probably the third oldest bridge in Italy but rebuilt after WWII
Took this photo from Ponte Vecchio
December 2012

When we met Sylvia it was 8:30 am and she was permitted to come inside the boat dock to meet us right by the buses.  As all the other cruisers were boarding their buses we jumped in our van and took off for Florence.  This gave us a good half hour head start on all of the others.  

The kids and Trent pose with the statue of Nettuna, a Roman God of the Sea
sculpted around 1575 by Ammannati
Florence December 2012

During our drive she gave us some amazing facts on the landscape and mountains in the Tuscan area.  The drive was absolutely beautiful and reminded me a lot of Napa Valley. (See my post on Napa!)  It was a gorgeous setting and though I’ve been to Florence before in 2009 it had been during the summer, and seeing it in the winter was a great contrast in climate.  During my previous summer trip it was very warm and had a lot of humidity, this time it was cool, and even foggy in the morning during our beautiful drive.  Another big contrast is how short the drive was for us this time.  During the summer visit it took us almost two hours to make it to Florence from Livorno, this time however, the roads were empty and we made it in one hour!  That was a great benefit since this time we had come with all six of our kids.

Bailey, 11, posing on the Ponte Vecchio bridge during our first visit to Florence in December 2009

Bella eating her gelato on Ponte Santa Trinita
Florence December 2012

When we arrived in Florence, Sylvia drove us through the town a little so we could get our bearings and then up to Michelangelo Square.  This was a beautiful outlook over the city and is the home to the brass replica of Michelangelo’s David.  Though it has turned green from the elements it is just as beautiful as the original.  It is also a symbol of Florence that represents how perfect the statue and the people of this area.  Our guide pointed out many important buildings, bridges, and even the original wall that surrounded this magnificent city so long ago.  

Posing with the replica bronze statue of Michelangelo's David
Florence December 2012

The view of Florence from Michelangelo's Square
December 2012

Once we left the square we went down to visit some of the churches and cathedrals in the area.  The Chiesa di Santa Croce was our first stop.  The beautiful cathedral with green, white, and pink marble, quarried from the surrounding areas, was a beautiful site. This is also where Michelangelo's tomb rests with three figurines on top that represent painting, sculpture, and  architecture.  From there it was on to the Uffizi where we visited the other David replica in Signora Square.  Being a holiday in Florence meant the Uffizi Museum was closed on the day we visited.  We were bummed.  However, there are so many naked statues here that my kids could hardly stop giggling, but the history is amazing and we had fun talking about many different biblical and mythical stories that are represented here.  

All eight of us in front of  Chiesa di Santa Croce
Florence December 2012

Lexi making the statue of David a little more modest for our photo
Florence December 2012

My sister "C" giving the statue of Nettuna a pinch on the bum during our previous visit
to Florence in July 2009

This was all just outside of the Cathedral of Santa Maria of Florence.  
From there we saw more amazing sights and left to find lunch at a nice pizzeria.  Our group happened upon the Vesuvio's Pizzeria, www.ovesuviofirenze.com, which was once of the favorites of the cast of New Jersey Shores when they visited Florence.  Of course we didn’t know this until we were seated inside but we didn’t miss seeing the casts autographs on the wall or advertisements posted.  It was a funny experience and the pizza was delicious.  They didn’t seem to have heat though, so our fingers were a little numb due to the 50o weather outside.  It was a nice stop where we ate, used the restroom, had a drink, and were off for more!

Waiting for our pizza at Vesuvio's Pizzeria
Florence December 2012

So happy to have found gelato only to walk across the bridge Ponte Santa Trinita to find our creperia!
Florence December 2012

Trent and I posing in front of Ponte Vecchio while on our quest for crepes!
Florence December 2012

My kids next goal was to find a creperia but Trent had another plan.  He wanted to cross the Ponte Vecchio bridge, walk down through the city on that side and then cross back over the Ponte Santa Trinita bridge.  All the while we took photos, laughed a lot, and took more photos.  My kids were getting sick and tired every time I found a photo op!

All six kids posing with the Porcellino (piglet) Created in 1634 by Pietro Tacca
Florence December 2012

Our last big monument to visit while in Florence was the  Porcellino.  It is their lucky pig.  Legend goes that if you rub the pigs nose a return trip to Florence is guaranteed, and if you place a coin in the pigs mouth and it falls through the grate below you will receive good luck.  Our kids of course all had to get their coins and take their pictures in hopes that they would return to Florence someday.  Since we had run across this pig in our previous trip to Florence with the three older kids, they loved knowing it had all come full circle.  

Trent, my sister "C" and Colton,13, Bailey,11, and Clay,8, enjoying the Porcellino in 2009

By this time we found our gelato. Then we found waffles and nutella on the street and had to stop again. Finally our visit to Florence came to a close.  Now I know you are wondering why we didn’t see the original David statue, visit Galileo’s Museum, or go to any other museums and the answer is simple... everything was closed!  Crazy that we had come all this way but December 26, the day of our visit was a holiday in Italy called St Stephano Day.

The Leaning Tower of Pisa really is leaning! All six kids were amazed by this!
Pisa, December 2012

Duomo di Pisa as seen from the top of the Tower
Pisa, December 2012

From Florence it was a forty-minute drive over to Pisa.  Basically the rival city of Florence, and at one time the main shipping port in the area.  We had a nice rest in our van where the kids could be as loud as they wanted.  After arriving in Pisa at about 3:00pm we walked around, took a ton of pictures in Pisa Square where all the kids wanted to act like they were holding up the tower and then we decided to buy some tickets to go up.  

Bella shopping for some souvenirs in the shops on the way to the Tower
Pisa December 2012

Trent is such a great dad carrying all the necessities kids need
and trinkets we pick up along the way in his day pack
Pisa December 2012

Admission to the Leaning Tower of Pisa cost us 15E each and was only accessible for kids 8 and up.  So we took turns going to the top so one adult could stay down with Bella.  While I waited for Trent to take the first group of our kids up Colton and I went over to a nearby cafe and had hot chocolates.  Let me tell you that hot chocolates are much different in Italy than they are in the US.  It is like warming up a milk chocolate candy bar to liquid and drinking it.  It is rich and way too much chocolate for any one person to drink on their own.  So if you make it over and order a hot chocolate make sure you have someone to share it with!  

Our hot chocolate by the Leaning Tower of Pisa
Looks like a melted candy bar!
December 2012

Bailey,11,  holding the tower up during our first visit in July 2009

The kids love these action shots as they pose in front of every monument and
statue we could find on our trip
Pisa, December 2012

By the time Colton and I went up the tower we climbed all 253 steps to the bell tower.  It was a difficult climb since the tower is leaning it sometimes it felt like we were climbing up hill and other times gravity was on our side as we still climbed the stairs.  Going up a lopsided tower was a different experience for sure!  By the end of our climb it was time to head back to Livorno.  Another twenty-five minutes and we were back to board at 6:00pm.  It was a long day but very fulfilling for everyone.  

The stairs from the top of the Tower going down.  It was 254 stairs to the top!
Pisa, December 2012

Colton thinking about his big dreams at the top of the Leaning Tower of Pisa
Pisa, December 2012

So my biggest tip of the day would be to get your group organized and hire a private tour.  As Sylvia let us know they are known as “pirates”in the industry since they are taking away from the organized cruise excursions but they make for a much better fit for a family or person needing individual attention.  The only problem is unlike cruise excursions, if your ship does not make port for some reason there usually is not a refund from these private tours.  Also if your private tour does not get back to the ship on time the ship will not wait.  The cruise excursions will usually wait for a bus but not for a van.  So let that be my warning but in the end it will not deter me from doing this in the future.  I think it is the best way to see a place like this, and worth the extra money in the long run.

Imitating the statues
Pisa, December 2012

At the top of the "Leaning Tower of Pizza" as Lexi called it...
Pisa December 2012

As always safe and happy travels!!